Normally only one is used but two is better. I also personally recommend using (two) screw-in wheel hanger fitting/removal alignment guide pins when removing and refitting each road wheel. Some Owner's Manual have to always undo the lock bolts first and replace them last, I place them opposite the tyre valve as a reminder of tightening order and if they've been moved then the garage might have taken the wheel off. That’s it for the brakes but associated tips for the wheels and their bolts. I had the loan of a caliper rewind tool but careful use of other more basic tools would have worked fine, do check that the brake fluid will not overfill or overflow when pushing the caliper pistons back.Ī Torx T30 tip or screwdriver is needed to remove the one screw on the discs.Īfter brushing and cleaning the hub I put some Ceratec grease on the hub where it touches the brake disc as it does rust there a bit.

You could perhaps use GT85 spray on the caliper piston rubber seals, I forgot. The pads have clips of different size for caliper side and other side of piston and the ones I got had two of the four marked “piston side” so with them you can’t go wrong (but I did! I put two outer pads on the first caliper despite the markings). You do not use Ceratec on the caliper guide pins because they go into a rubber part, the pins either go back in dry or you can use Hydratec for rubber contact (I used red rubber grease as I have a tin of it that will last me a lifetime). The two slide pins on each calliper were a bit of a pain and took time to clean the crud off without scratching so next time I’d buy new pins and it wouldn’t slow the process. There are videos of the job being done online, some more thorough than others, so I won’t be going through a step-by-step explanation as I’d not be as good as the videos.Īlong with the usual tools you need a hex H7 (7mm) bar/tip, (ratchet) socket or 7mm large Allen key, none of which I had in any of my tool kits and a Torx T30 tip or screwdriver.ĭifferent from what some videos show it’s now recommended not to use copper grease but Ceratec on metal-to-metal contact areas (only) which is the pad ears and where the pad ears move on the caliper. The job is easy and easier than the few other front brake pads and discs replacements I've done. Here I just want to give a few observations and tips, as a non-mechanic, from when I fitted the front brake pads and discs to my wife’s Fabia Mk3.

Egr remover 1.4